After covering the basic care requirements,​ let’s discuss how‍ to successfully breed ⁤ Eurydactylodesspp. First and foremost, it is important to‍ determine the sex of your geckos.‌ Mature males are easily⁣ distinguishable from mature females due to⁣ their prominent ⁣hemipenal‌ bulge and waxy, often yellow, femoral pores. Females lack⁣ these features, as shown ​in⁤ the images below.

Sexing juvenile Eurydactylodesspp. can be more challenging, as they do not develop the bulge until maturity. Males can develop pores as early as 2-3 months​ old, and experienced keepers can⁣ usually determine their sex at this point‍ using a loupe. However, things are not always as ‍they seem, as females ​can ‍also‌ display pseudopores that look ⁣similar to male pores. A trained⁢ eye can ⁤tell‍ the difference, but unfortunately, ​it takes ⁢experience to ‌do so. Generally, female pseudopores ⁣do not have⁣ waxy-yellow extrusions coming out of the pores. Additionally, the pores are usually ⁣centered in a small diamond pattern, ‌rather than all the way across the legs.

Diet

Successful breeding is heavily dependent on the diet​ of your​ breeders. As with​ most species, the⁣ more‌ variety you can include in their diet,‌ the better. While ‍ Eurydactylodesspp. can survive and reproduce on prepared⁢ gecko diets alone,⁤ they will thrive and ⁣be‍ more prolific when offered live, gut-loaded insects a⁣ few times a week. ​We offer smaller sized ⁤crickets and ​dubia roach nymphs. We​ dust the insects⁢ with calcium‍ with D3 powder every time​ we feed them, and we‌ mix in a‌ Herptivite multivitamin with the ⁤calcium⁢ once a‍ month. In addition, we offer‌ prepared gecko diet 2-3 times a week.

Seasons

Seasonal ‌cues⁣ play a role in the breeding cycle ⁣of these geckos. Shorter days and cooler temperatures will “turn off” breeding and ⁢egg laying. Our gecko ​room falls to around 68-72⁣ F during the winter⁤ months, ⁤which​ effectively signals to them that it is time for a ⁢break. Two to three months of cooler days and less than 12 ⁣hours of light ⁣is recommended as a⁢ rest period, after ​which you can resume⁢ normal temperature and⁣ light cycles to stimulate breeding behavior.

Pairing

These geckos⁤ breed readily when housed as ‌pairs ‌or trios. Having more ‌than 2 females with the male seems to⁣ result in ‌less breeding and⁢ egg‍ laying.⁢ Only a single male should ⁤ever be ⁣housed with the female(s)​ to prevent fighting. The pairs or trios⁣ can be housed together year-round.

Having healthy, well-fed,⁣ and properly housed pairs or trios will ​result in ⁤successful breeding and egg laying.

Egg Laying⁢ Sites

Your egg laying container⁢ should be at least 4 inches deep,‍ as⁣ Eurydactylodes like​ to bury their eggs fairly deep. We find that Gladware-type containers work well. Fill the⁤ container with a 50:50 mixture of peat moss​ and vermiculite, and‍ make sure ‍it stays damp but not soaking wet. ‌Check for eggs regularly, as you⁣ can often ​see a dig spot. Both species⁤ are notorious for laying eggs outside of the lay box, but these ‍are ‍usually infertile eggs.

Eggs and Incubation
Once the eggs ‍are laid, they⁤ should be removed and placed into an egg container with a moist, but not soaking wet,⁣ incubation medium. We prefer ⁢to use Pangea Hatch or vermiculite for the medium.‌ The lid should be opened every 4-7 ‍days to check⁢ on the eggs and refresh‍ the air inside. We leave the container in our⁢ reptile room, which stays ⁢at 73-75 degrees, and the eggs typically⁢ hatch in ⁤70-90 days.

Hatchling Care
Hatchlings should be cared for​ in the same ⁢way as ⁤adults, with a little more emphasis on ensuring they are misted regularly and‍ heavily enough to allow ample time for ‌them to drink ⁤the droplets of water. Dehydration ​is the ‌most common ​cause ​of failure to ​thrive‍ in these two species. That being said, keeping them too‌ moist and without‍ enough ventilation can also be detrimental, as it can lead to⁤ respiratory‍ infections. Good airflow is essential​ and will allow the enclosure to dry ⁣out between mistings.